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Defining Biodynamics
Is there any other term in the wine world that is more misunderstood than biodynamics?
Many people would like to simplify the definition to "farming by the moon" or "burying cowhorns," but these definitions miss the core of biodynamic farming—its integrated ecological approach.
As Jason Haas of Tablas Creek Vineyard succinctly put it (in the quote above):
“Organics is essentially the replacement of chemical additives with non chemical additives. Biodynamics is the building of a system in which additives are largely unnecessary because you have designed an ecosystem that provides what your crop needs.”
Biodynamic wine grape growing is a tool that many gravitate to in their search for making better wines.
Briefly stated, Biodynamic vineyard certification requires a systems approach to farming, including the following practices:
• Maximizing the use of on-farm inputs to improve soil and plant health
• Setting aside 10% of the land for wildlife and biodiversity
• Integrating domesticated, farm animals (and chickens) into farming practices where appropriate
• Using biodynamic compost (created from on-site green waste and animal manure—often obtained from neighbors' properties—treated with the Biodynamic preparations)
• Applying 8 different biodynamic herbal and mineral based preparations on compost and vineyards
Perhaps the easiest way to understand biodynamics is to listen to a series of YouTube videos shot in 2008, with Alan York (1952-2014), a leader in biodynamics. He outlined the four main biodynamic principles:
B. Biodiversity
A. CLOSED LOOP SYSTEM
The farm should provide nutrients for its crops from the property itself.
Photo: At Montinore Estate in Oregon, nearby organic dairy farmers drop off their organic cow poop which Rudy Marchesi uses to make compost.
(In general, wineries often do not have enough land to have enough cows to fertilize their own vineyards, so using local, organic dairy manure from nearby farms is
B. BIODIVERSITY OR LANDSCAPE ECOLOGY
Diversity is nature's form of biological control.
Certified biodynamic properties must leave 10% of the land uncultivated as a set-aside for biodiversity.
Photo: Benziger Family Wines in Sonoma is surrounded by woods.
In addition, it has constructed insectiaries within the farmed areas to attract more beneficial insects that eat pests.
C. BIODYNAMIC PREPARATIONS: HERB AND MINERAL SPRAYS AND COMPOST TEAS
The biodynamic preparations, or preps, are herbal and mineral sprays that enhance plant health and provide protection from diseases and pests.
Photo: In this 2003 shot, Dave Koball, then at Bonterra, examines a cowhorn used for making horn manure.
The horn, which is full of calcium, is filled with manure and then buried in a micro
D. HOLISTIC APPROACH
The farm is its own ecosystem in which all living things are interconnected.
Photo: At Apricot Lane Farm, the farm is seen as a whole. The story of Alan York's collaboration with the owners, John and Molly, to transform Apricot Lanes to a biodynamic farm is the subject of the documentary The Biggest Little Farm.
Writer & Editor | Jancis Robinson, World Atlas of Wine
Vintner | Melanie Tesseron, Chateau Pontet-Canet, Bordeaux
Writer & Editor | Jancis Robinson, World Atlas of Wine
"I can't taste when a wine is grown organically, but I can taste if it was grown biodynamically."
Writer | Will Lyon | The Sunday Times | London
Vintner | Melanie Tesseron, Chateau Pontet-Canet, Bordeaux
Writer & Editor | Jancis Robinson, World Atlas of Wine
"...having tasted numerous wines made using some of the practical aspects of biodynamics I have found they are marked with a purity, silkiness and concentration rarely found in other wines."
Vintner | Melanie Tesseron, Chateau Pontet-Canet, Bordeaux
Vintner | Melanie Tesseron, Chateau Pontet-Canet, Bordeaux
Vintner | Melanie Tesseron, Chateau Pontet-Canet, Bordeaux
“Being biodynamic has brought more complexity to our wines, and more quality, which is key.”
Vintner | Jason Haas, Tablas Creek, California
Vintner | Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, Louis Roederer Champagne
Vintner | Melanie Tesseron, Chateau Pontet-Canet, Bordeaux
"When we were first experimenting with biodynamics by farming a test block that way, we found that the biodynamic blocks outperformed their previous scores in both the first and second years of adopting biodynamic practices."
Vintner | Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, Louis Roederer Champagne
Vintner | Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, Louis Roederer Champagne
Vintner | Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, Louis Roederer Champagne
“After four or five years, we were 100 percent able to identify the wines from biodynamic soils. More intensity, more clarity of fruit, a velvety texture and a link between fruit and acidity."